It’s my fourth trip to Taiwan and my dad’s second. We’re already feeling global warming upon arrival as it’s 88 degrees Fahrenheit with humidity and its late November. I know it wasn’t like this in 2009. I’m being told we arrived on a “bad week”. On this trip we will do sightseeing in the city, at the ocean, in the country and in the forest (mountains).
Note: If you enjoy learning about different cultures and would like to read about my observations (as a Caucasian American) and perspectives and research of the Taiwanese culture in more depth, take a look at my previous two (2) blogs on Taiwan under the “TRAVEL” heading.
So simple and yet so tasty. The rest of our Taiwanese breakfast consists of fresh soymilk, cold milk tea and a soft and airy long doughy bread which if it were lightly dusted in table sugar or honey would be — A-M-A-Z-I-N-G! I know, I know, “whitey tries to turn everything into a donut”.
Fresh and often unfamiliar fruit are everywhere in Taiwan.
I will seek out other interesting sculptures and art while in Taiwan.
I look for shade wherever possible and enjoy the cooler air near the running water.
The Wulai Falls Area has various waterfalls. None will “knock your socks off” if you’ve experienced mammoth waterfalls but it makes for an enjoyable trek.
Bella’s parents have a naturally growing banana tree in their backyard where Taiwanese monkeys pilfered a recent yield of fruit. The rest of the bananas look “green team” so the smart monkeys aren’t “sniffing in” yet.
It’s a 25 minute drive to the mountain townhouse near the top of the mountain.
If this were Tokyo, my face would be curled up the angle leading to the ceiling as people would be pressing me against the wall. “Been there, done that”…
Lungshan Temple (lungshan.org.tw) is one of the more impressive temples I’ve visited in Taiwan. This temple was founded in 1738 and dedicated to the Buddhist “Goddess of Mercy” (“Guan-yin” in Chinese). It was rebuilt in 1919.
I strongly recommend visiting temples like this at night as the experience is much better visually and spiritually.
The detail work is stunning throughout.
Note the intricate details in this stone sculptured column.
This vendor is selling dried squid (i.e. squid jerky) and other interesting “nuggets”. This night market has some very interesting vendors and I definitely want to spend more time here on future trips.
There are a lot more fancy restaurants at the night markets than in previous years.
When in Taiwan I often find the “street food” much more fun.
“You don’t need a silver fork to eat good food.” — Paul Prudhomme
I ate chicken testicles on my first trip to Taiwan in 2008. Most of that smooth texture remains after they cook them which proves “interesting”.
The employees at snake restaurants won’t allow photographs while you are inside.
I had a chance to sample a slice off of a whole pig in Danshui in 2009 but chose grilled squid instead. Now, I never seem to see it being sold in that form when we tour Taiwan. Sad…
They have a creamy appearance to them. Since the giant sea snails “got me” on the last trip, there will be no snail consumption on this trip.
I’ve tried frog legs and thought they were more trouble than they were worth. After all, they taste like “chicken”. Although, the thought of a whole frog in a soup broth is more enticing.
These are island people so seafood often “wins the show”.
For $12.00 U.S. dollars or less you can buy a stylish watch.
It is normally fairly spicy and very, very tasty. This is good but dad and I remember how much better it was at a night market in 2011.
Today Bella’s 85-year-old uncle is treating us to a round of golf at the Formosa First Country Club (50 Mao Wei Chi, Keng-Tze Village, Lu-chu, Taoyuan County). This is an Arnold Palmer designed course. It is very expensive to play golf in Taiwan and not easy to gain access. This course would cost about $160.00 U.S. dollars per person if her uncle weren’t a member. What a treat…
Not that she needs it…the girl is “on fire” today.
It’s another warm day but with cart, caddy and cold beverages we’ll — “manage”.
Our caddy advises us that the natural grass greens are slow as she uses the flag to point out our putting lines. On one hole, Bella hits a low liner from the fairway towards me and I am only half paying attention. It is pretty comical (given the end result) as I do a mid-air, split-legged jump as the ball jets between my legs.
The course isn’t as green as I’d hoped since Taiwan had a hot year. Bella is “representing her peeps” on the links today as if the Taiwanese flag were draped on her backside. This is her first time playing golf in her mother country.
Our caddy loans me this “space ship” golf tee (actual name is “brush tee”) which I inadvertently “pilfer”.
The Taiwanese classify it more in the “jerky” family of foods. It is very nice tasting.
The main excitement the Taiwanese have over jellyfish is the “crunch” factor. It is pretty much flavorless so I never really got it. However, this salad contains other veggies and a light tasty dressing so I’m “back in” on the Taiwanese jellyfish train.
It tastes good and we assume it is some sort of white fish.
From a textural standpoint and a “health concern” standpoint I’m out on this one. Nobody is positive as to what it is but the consensus is the aforementioned.
The ceiling is huge and given this Christmas tree I briefly forget where I am.
Trains are clean, comfortable, the seats recline and pull-out food trays are built-in.
This map at the CarPlus rental car office in Hualien is another indicator of Taiwanese priorities. Our vehicle is a Luxgen van equipped with at least six cameras. If you initiate a turn signal, a large monitor displays an image of all vehicles surrounding you on that side. Also, the side doors auto shut via a touch. Furthermore, the dashboard monitor continuously changes to display the posted speed limit as you drive.
We stand at one of three Tropic of Cancer markers in Taiwan.
Tonight we stay at the Bunun Tribal Leisure Farm (W: bunun.org.tw). Surprisingly, they are offering Taiwanese “hot pot” which involves cooking your own meat and veggies and eating piece by piece as you cook. Multiple sauces are available for dipping. This is dad’s first “hot pot” experience and he enjoys it.
There are several of these tables along with chairs outside of our cabin.
We observe a pair of these miniature geckos climbing our interior cabin walls. The Taiwanese have the best names for insects, reptiles, mammals etc.
This feeling of height inferiority doesn’t happen to me often in Taiwan.
“Culture is the arts elevated to a set of beliefs” — Thomas Wolfe
We were “fortunate” that their pen is directly across from our cabins.
A tiny stray kitten appears out of the rubble…
The “Maple Leafs” team won the Little League World Series in 1968. We watch some little league players practicing.
This sculpture is outside of the Hongye Little League Memorial.
I grew up watching the super competitive Chinese Taipei Little League baseball teams in the LLWS held in Williamsport, PA each year.
The museum is small but there are some interesting items.
Other Taiwanese Little League baseball teams have won the LLWS since 1968 but not the Maple Leafs.
If it wasn’t “monkey hot” we would sit on the terrace with canyon views.
The farm produces their own organic produce, jams, olive tapenade, soaps etc. I am a definite fan of their fresh mulberry juice.
Up the road from the Hongye Little League Memorial.
Smart snail…camouflage.
This praying mantis is HUGE.
“I realized that Eastern thought had somewhat more compassion for all living things. Man was a form of life that in another reincarnation might possibly be a horsefly or a bird of paradise or a deer. So a man of such faith, looking at animals, might be looking at old friends or ancestors.”
— William Orville Douglas
We purchase this “Cherimoya” (a.k.a. “Buddha Head”) fruit from a roadside vendor.
The taste is really nice and sweet and similar to an apple and pear with a custard quality. Its secondary name is “custard apple”.
We enjoy a delicious soft-serve organic milk flavored ice cream cone (supplied by their Holstein cows) at the Chu Lu Ranch (chuluranch.com). It has such a fresh taste and an almost “eggy” quality to it. I know J.B. will LOVE this photo.
This crafty little goat immediately slid under the fence when he saw Bella approach.
They are trekking down to the Xiaoyeliu area beach.
We stop at “Water Running Up” in Dulan (near Taitung City) where water actually does run uphill. Many people fail with their “science experiments” but Dr. Bella Tseng (a.k.a. “Daughter of a Scientist”) uses a small portion of a leaf and it makes it to the top where it disappears over the hill.
We will enjoy their mineral springs at the Formosan Naruwan Hotel & Resort (naruwan-hotel.com.tw) later tonight. The basement features: various shops; large game room and arcade; mineral spring and spa; bar. They have a dining room off of the lobby featuring a Western dinner buffet and piano bar which is also on the agenda.
Doesn’t everyone find a window feature in “the can” useful? “Canning” is now a spectator sport.
Stunning views are plentiful here.
This is one of my favorite spots on this trip.
I make it across the bridge but no further as the “greasiness” (heat and humidity) is too much for this “cold weather bird”. My dad amazingly treks on with Papa Tseng and explores the island. Dad is “sweating biscuits” when he staggers back whereupon I provide him with our favorite thirst-quenching sports beverage.
It isn’t carbonated but has a grapefruit taste similar to Squirt soda. It is a lifesaver on these “greasy” days where trekking is involved. It is available in cans at Ranch 99 Markets in California for those interested in trying it.
These tour buses are everywhere in Taiwan.
It’s an election year and these caravans are visible all over Taiwan with built-in electronic megaphones blaring.
The Tropic of Cancer passes through: Algeria; Niger; Libya; Egypt; Saudi Arabia; United Arab Emirates; Oman; India; Bangladesh; Burma; China; Taiwan; Mexico; Bahamas; Mauritania; Mali. Taiwan has three (3) markers throughout their country.
Two female Mainland Chinese tourists engage in a loud and aggressive shouting match.
“Painting is so poetic, while sculpture is more logical and scientific and makes you worry about gravity.” — Damien Hirst
“Wait for it…waittttttt…for it”…
Compare and contrast with the black and white shot (below).
You see these now and then in Taipei City and beyond.
Young Taiwanese seem to be following other Asian countries in their desire to be very fashionable. Fancier clothing stores are becoming more common.
Its huge and prettier at night (of course).
This ceremony takes place inside the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall.
Papa Tseng and Bella’s aunt bring us here for a guided tour of the Lin Family Mansion & Garden (9 Ximen St., Taipei, Taiwan). The house and grounds date back to 1851.
According to Bella’s family only Thailand has more scooters on roadways.
Similar to the Japanese, the Taiwanese love “Frenchie” style bakeries. Bear in mind, they are a “salty” first and “sweet” second culture so most pastries are noticeably less sweet than what most bakeries serve in the United States.
Papa Tseng takes us to this concert in the park outside of the Concert Hall at the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial. We watch on the big screen with a fantastic sound system. The crowd is respectful and most sounds of the city are drowned out as a light misting rain falls. The crowd erupts with loud clapping as this sold-out concert ends.
Afterwards we learn that the “green party” (pro-Taiwan independence) “kicked butt” over the “blue party” (pro-China control) across the board in today’s election. That is fantastic news for Taiwanese who are not thrilled with Mainland China constantly trying to meddle in their affairs.
Becky pre-ordered a Peking duck from Shin Pu Yuan (shinpuyuan-group.com) and treats us to a seriously delicious and fancy lunch. Becky was one of Bella’s students when she taught at the University of Southern California (USC).
Another tasty beverage I highly recommend are papaya milk drinks in Taiwan.
This is healthy and tasty as well as visually appealing.
It has a light sweetness to it with light and flaky dough. Delectable…
For those “A Christmas Story” lovers out there.
From beginning to end, this is an upscale dining experience.
I can’t even begin to describe how good this is.
I’ve never had duck soup before. It is super tasty with a touch of sourness.
I create a volcano effect by carving a hole in the top due to the “scoriaceous” cream inside. They are moderately sweet with a firm skin and delicious gooey cream inside.
We shop for souvenirs at the Taiwan Handicraft Promotion Center (handicraft.taiwan.org). I pick up baseball themed tea cups for J.B.
The box is designed as a player’s “old school” striped uniform.
Rumor has it that this pond is a dumping ground of exotic pets. One such pet are crocodiles and in the past observers saw a baby crocodile chewing on the remains of a stray puppy. 😦
I meet one of Bella’s former music teachers, her young protege drummer son and husband.
I’m thinking a seafood pizza with shrimp and calamari isn’t on the menu in California at California Pizza Kitchen (CPK)?
We endure the “terrible two’s or three’s” throughout the meal with consistent attempts to get whatever she wants at the expense of her older sister. Not nice…
We take the bullet train to Chiayi where we pick up a rental SUV at CarPlus. This iced coffee has a near perfect blend of premium coffee, whole milk and light on sweetener.
I nearly “puke brains” as a seriously smelly dumpster is nearby. The rental process takes forever in Taiwan compared with the U.S. so we are near “Smelly Nelly” for over 30 minutes. Also, one of the seat belts is buried and it takes an employee forever to locate it and free it. The odor is as if a giant pig ate a skunk and then puked and blew out his o-ring simultaneously. Horribly smelly…
Outside of the Chukou Visitor Center we have a snack. Yes, they taste as good as they look.
This is next to the Eternity Suspension Bridge at the base of the Alishan Forest Recreation Area.
At the historical streets of Fencihu we have lunch.
The Alishan Youth Activity Center (alishan.cyh.org.tw) will be our accommodations for the next couple of days.
The lodgings are often rustic at the youth centers but they supply everything you need. And this unit had a nice newly remodeled large bathroom.
Initially I thought this guest at the Youth Center traveled with her own brewing kit. After breakfast I see it in a box in the lobby so possibly the Youth Center owns it. Both tea and coffee are grown on Ali Mountain.
Inside the station approximately twenty Mainland Chinese tourists (per Bella) are congregating. I turn to my dad and say “Oh my god, how can it be this noisy when there are only twenty people in here”. Where upon dad wittingly responds, “even more puzzling is that only three of them are speaking”.
A tour group of Mainland Chinese tourists refuses to wait until we exit the train. I will simply cite from my previous blog titled “50 Smooth Moves” and relate it to “Elevator Offenders”:
Elevator Offenders, #14
“It isn’t brain surgery people; etiquette says you wait for someone who has the superior position to leave before you enter.”
This sign is in front of a tall redwood tree.
As are their giant umbrellas. We quickly discover that if a walkway accommodates four-people-wide this particular tour group elects to walk four-people-wide in THEIR direction thereby failing to allow one-person-wide traveling in OUR direction. Truly bizarre. Once again, possibly we arrived on a “bad week”? Bella advises us that if we want to survive the day with our sanity intact we need to lose the “nice guy perspective” and force our way through with a “dogged determination” (okay, this may be my translation given the verbiage) and if some bodies get “bounced” around a bit, so be it. Sometimes in life we must remember it’s a — “dog eat dog world”.
“A writer is a spectator, looking at everything with a highly critical eye.” — Bernard Malamud
This view is from an area directly above the gigantic redwoods.
Note the pig nose with “nose holes” and pig ears.
Reaching this area involves trekking up some steep and slightly awkward stone steps but it is rather pretty.
A vendor offers this to my dad for free but Papa Tseng pays her in spite of the kind offer.
It is “official”, I am — “NO LONGER AN EMPEROR PENGUIN”. I’m not sure if it is my recent loss of 15 pounds of “insulation” but the temperature today hit a low of 40 degrees Fahrenheit with wind and rain and this windbreaker jacket, thin and airy knit cap and thin sweater are clearly “not cutting the mustard”.
“Not so fast, my friend”. It is actually fuzzy green mossy growth on the trees.
I didn’t realize that about five different sets of monkeys were going to come down the mountain and cross the road. Otherwise, I would’ve moved in for a better shot.
This is becoming one of my favorite dishes in Asia, much to the chagrin of my doctor. Our eight course dinner which feeds five people costs $30.00 U.S. dollars.
If you’ve ever had corn pudding you should love these. Amazing…
Paper napkins in Taiwan often consist of 3″ x 3″ squares which are barely firmer than a 2-layer facial tissue and are equally as thin. On average, I need about twenty of these to get through a single meal.
These are located on their front lawn.
Today we take a train chock full of Cantonese tourists and thankfully it was NOT “nutbalz” like yesterday.
Unfortunately, the weather and clouds fight off our viewing of a nice sunrise.
I tend to prefer overcast days, cloud displays and fog anyway.
This is directly outside of the railway station.
This is around the corner from our hotel.
On a side note, I am noticing that the architecture in Taiwan has shifted to dark brown and dark gray tones on the tile exteriors of homes and offices. The light grays and whites are gone surely due to their inability to hold up visually via the beating sun and heavy rains.
For about $28.00 U.S. dollars you receive a one hour upper body, lower leg and hoof acupressure massage. NOTE: it is not customary to tip in Taiwan. With all the walking we have done this is a mandatory treatment. We choose Flyfar Massage (flyfarmassage.com) located near the Shilin Night Market since Bella says they have a great reputation.
Chicken rarely makes a statement to food lovers but at Gingko Taiwanese Cuisine (ir-gingko.com.tw), it does.
Not a huge tofu fan but “egg tofu” is much more agreeable.
Very tasty and a winner with all of us.
YUM!
A nice “root vegetable” dessert. If you like sweet potato, you should like these.
The color is spectacularly bright and the taste is flowery, slightly tart and sweet. There is almost a medicine-like quality to it which I’m guessing is why my dad isn’t a fan.
Papa Tseng accompanies dad and I here for an audio tour of the former president’s home. He confesses that he himself has never been inside. We learn plenty of interesting “nuggets” about Chiang Kai-shek and his spouse. NOTE: Tours must be scheduled in advance and photography isn’t allowed inside.
In Danshui, dad “enjoys” tofu in a sweet sauce and fish ball soup. “Nice try!”
This cute penguin is inside the Taoyuan International Airport.
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