It is the day after Christmas and we’re departing the Courtyard Marriott (A: 600 E. Esplanade, Oxnard, CA  93036.  P: 805-988-3600.  W: marriott.com).  We had a splendid Christmas at dad’s house featuring grilled Cornish game hen, homemade gnocchi, homemade pesto sauce and homemade marinara sauce containing Italian sausage and mushroom.  It was our first Christmas without mom so it was a tad bittersweet but we had a nice celebration nevertheless.

We gas up the car and hit Starpuke’s for our morning java fix.  I’m “attempting” to drop some LBs so I forego my usual winter standard, the maple scone.  Around 1:30pm we arrive in downtown Monterey in the cannery district.  We kill time by shopping before meeting up with one of Bella’s classmates from her doctoral music program at USC.

I purchase Bella an Emperor penguin chick stuffed animal at Mackerel Jacks Trading Company (A: 799 Cannery Row, Monterey, CA  93940.  P: 831-655-2399).  At The Sand Dollar (A: 700E Cannery Row, Monterey, CA  93940.  P: 831-372-2885) I find a squatty stuffed animal penguin and a metal “jackass” penguin figurine for our collection.  At another store across the street from the Monterey Bay Aquarium Bella buys me a colorful penguin figurine that is a broken ceramic tile type design.

We meet the couple at The Fish Hopper (A: 700 Cannery Row, Monterey, CA  93940.  P: 831-372-8543.  W: fishhopper.com).  I select the “Seafood Pasta Monterey” dish which contains scallops, shrimp, white fish and chopped artichoke in a garlic sauce.  Bella orders a special lobster pasta dish.  Her meal was slightly tastier but I predict neither will make the highlight reel on this voyage.  Food and drink rating = B-.

We bid Bella’s friend and boyfriend farewell and check in at our hotel, Mariposa Inn and Suites (A: 1386 Munras Ave, Monterey, CA  93940.  P: 831-649-1414.  W: mariposamonterey.com).  I’m a bit surprised to see designer touches like granite counters and the above counter sink.  The room is ice cold due to a huge gap underneath the front door.  We counteract the cold via the wall heater unit in lieu of jamming one of only two towels under the door.

Mariposa Hotel: Room

Our dinner is at the Duck Club Grill at the Monterey Plaza Hotel (A: 400 Cannery Row, Monterey, CA  93940.  P: 831-646-1706.  W: montereyplazahotel.com).  We open the meal with the dungeoness crab cake resting in a black pepper cucumber salad and topped with yellow tomato beurre blanc.  It’s a quality cake and quite fresh tasting.  We order the same entrée, the black cod in hazelnut almond parsley picado sauce.  The fish rests in a bed of pureed parsnip and thinly sliced green beans.  It is a quality piece of fish but my socks are still in my possession.

I ask the waitress if we can order two pomegranate panna cottas off the special holiday menu.  She agrees which I would later find out to be unfortunate.  They aren’t served on a plate in the fashion a traditional panna cotta is served.  They arrive in a martini glass and instead of a light flan-like texture they are more mousse-like.  There is a berry puree layer, a fix        rm pomegranate mousse layer, a mascarpone cheese layer and a whipped cream layer.  Believe me, it sounds better than it tastes.  To my buds, it is reminiscent of a homemade Jell-O pudding parfait.  Food and drink rating = B+.

In the morning we venture to downtown Carmel to once again experience the delicious breakfast served at Katy’s Place (A: Mission Street, between 5^th and 6^th Streets, 93921.  P: 831-624-0199. W: katysplacecarmel.com).  I realize that breakfast fare is typically pretty much the same excluding champagne brunches but Katy’s should surprise you.  I opt for my last year’s fave, the Basque Omelette Country Style which contains onions, bell peppers, chorizo sausage and potatoes (I vetoed the salsa and sour cream).  Bella looks to be in heaven as she investigates and rapidly destroys the Blueberry Vanilla Crepes.

After returning from the restroom I chuckle.  I notice that a couple (more middle-aged than us) who was seated next to us has decided to veto the Katy’s experience.  Earlier, I’d heard the woman complaining that the menu pricing was too expensive.  What a neophyte!  Seriously, how can you lack the logic to consider that you’re dining in Carmel, not Carson?  This is a high rent district my friends and rent money will not be earned via charging $3.99 for the “early bird special”.  Bella says they even whined about the $5.90 they paid for two coffees and the hubby claimed Denny’s coffee tastes better.  Nice try!  They are clearly “eat to live” people.  Food and drink rating = A.

We take Highway 1 toward Napa.  Our first stop in Napa is Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars (A: 5766 Silverado Trail, Napa, CA  94558.  P: 707-944-2020.  W: cask23.com) where we do an “Estate Collection Tasting Flight” (approximately $28.00 per person) consisting of their finest wines including the 2007 FAY Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2007 SLV Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2007 CASK 23 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon.  These are arguably the best cabs available in Napa with the CASK being the clear stand-out.

Stag’s Leap: Bella

Afterwards we maneuver through country roads to V. Sattui Winery (A: White Lane at Hwy 29, St. Helena, CA  94574.  P: 707-963-7774.  W: vsattui.com).  As luck would have it the “Spicy Italian Sandwich” from their deli is even better than I remembered from my 2002 trip.  Mozzarella cheese, salami, prosciutto, spicy capocollo, banana peppers and mayo on ciabatta bread.  Bella has a chicken noodle soup and a side of deliciously oily marinated mushrooms.

After lunch we drive to Silver Oak Cellars (A: 915 Oakville Crossroad, Oakville, CA  94562.  P: 707-942-7022.  W: silveroak.com) where I fly solo tasting the 2006 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2003 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.  These cabs aren’t as immediately approachable as Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars but they are excellent cabs nevertheless.  The 2005 Napa was likely the standout here.  A blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot gave it complexity, subtle oak, heavier tannins and an interesting complex nose.

Our final winery of the day is Peju Province Winery (A: 8466 St. Helena Highway, Rutherford, CA  94573.  707-963-3600.  W: peju.com).  I flap my wings solo once again trying nine different wines.  Woof!  Moving forward, Bella will be the designated driver.  The young gent conducting the tasting is knowledgeable beyond his years and engages us throughout the tasting.  The clear-cut winner is the 2006 Estate Cabernet Reserve Rutherford which for my tastes may be the best cab of the day.  This wine spends 28 months in French oak and is soft on the nose, has deep fruit on the palate, moderate oak and a silky smooth finish.  Unfortunately, at $175.00 per bottle I will be departing with an empty sack from this establishment.

Bella drives us to Dean & DeLuca (A: 607 South Street, Helena Highway, St. Helena, CA  94574.  P: 707-967-9980.  W: deandeluca.com) where we purchase kitchen spices, some bottled water and a crème brulee.Finally we are ready to check-in at our hotel, The Lodge at Calistoga (A: 1865 Lincoln Avenue, Calistoga, CA  94515.  P: 707-942-9400.  W: thelodgeatcalistoga.com).  This is one of our more budget friendly accommodations on the trip.

We relax and make a dinner reservation at Brannan’s Grill (A: 1374 Lincoln Avenue, Calistoga, CA  94515.  P: 707-942-2233.  W:  brannansgrill.com).  The Thai curry mussels consist of tender mussels bathing (not complaining) in a panang curry sauce.  Yum!  The butternut squash soup has a sprinkle of nutmeg on top and a dollop of cream as well.  It is smooth and creamy with a slightly sweet taste.

We each order the hanger steak with chimichurri sauce.  Beneath the steak are mashed potatoes, stir-fried brussel sprouts (surprisingly good) and slivers of Portobello mushrooms.  I close with the lemon verbena panna cotta served in a martini glass.  Uh-oh! Fortunately it is soft, light and creamy with berry sauce and boysenberries (frozen = “no bueno”) on top.  Tasty mini almond cookies are served on the plate.  Food and drink rating = A-.

The next morning we grab a house coffee and a vanilla latte at the Calistoga Roastery (A: 1426 Lincoln Avenue, Calistoga, CA  94515.  P: 707-942-5757.  W: calistogaroastery.com).  Drink rating = A-. We drive to Chateau Montelena (A: 1429 Tubbs Lane, Calistoga, CA  94515.  P: 707-942-5105.  W: montelena.com).  Here we enjoy our final wine tasting (approximately $19.00 per person) of the trip.  We sample 6 wines of which I found the 2008 Napa Chardonnay (crisp, not oaky or buttery with light stone fruit) and the 2006 Napa Estate Cabernet Sauvignon remarkable.

A light rain is coming down as we exit the tasting room.  I photograph some ducks at Jade Lake before we head out.  We drive back to downtown Calistoga to eat at the casual Buster’s Southern BBQ and Bakery (A: 1207 Foothill Boulevard, corner of Hwy 29 and Lincoln Avenue, Calistoga, CA  94515.  P: 707-942-5675.  W: busterssouthernbbq.com).  We order a rack of St. Louis pork ribs, garlic toast and a mini sweet potato pie.

The weather is cold under the rough shack open air building.  The pork isn’t smoky enough, some meat is tender and some is a tad dry but the meat tastes good and the pork isn’t “smewwwwwyyy”.  The sweet potato pie is simple and fantastic.  Food rating = B-.

We gas up and then take State Route 12 to Bodega Bay.  The weather is very rainy as we make our way through Sonoma.  We stop off at the schoolhouse used in Hitchcock’s film “The Birds”.  The 150 year-old Potter School House (A: 17110 Bodega Lane, Bodega, CA  94922.  P: 707-876-3257) is a residence and the owners do tours upon appointment.  I snap off a few quick photos in the rain before we park at the general store at the bottom of the hill.

Potter Schoolhouse: “The Birds”

I purchase an old Alfred Hitchcock Mystery Magazine and a piece of homemade baklava (the proprietor appears to be Middle Eastern) at the general store.  We peruse an antique store next door before venturing into Bodega Bay.

We stop off at another site utilized in “The Birds”, The Tides Wharf Gift Shop, and Restaurant and Bar (A: 835 Highway 1, Bodega Bay, CA  94923.  P: 707-875-2777.  W: innatthetides.com).  It received a major re-model in the 90s’.  There is a restaurant, gift shop, bakery, fresh fish market/deli/grocery shop.

At the gift shop I purchase “The Birds by Hitchcock Sonoma Coast Guide”.  It contains a lot of the history and trivia of the movie and locations utilized.  Bella buys me a mini cannoli from the bakery.  It contains a smooth ricotta filling, has a slight sourness and possesses that nice citrus taste I cherish in a good cannoli.  In the grocery shop Bella purchases a metal “tube” of “Green Pesto” made by Gia.  This is interesting to me for two reasons.  First, since when has there been a pesto sauce other than a green one?  Second, who is the Rhodes Scholar food scientist who came up with “pesto in a tube”?  I love it!

We drive down toward the bay and a road wraps around the edge of the water.  We are nearly level with the water as we drive slowly, watching sea birds swim determinedly, jumping through the waves in the pounding rain like penguins in Antarctica.  It seems they are trying to out-swim the storm…to what destination — I have no clue.  We find the location of our dinner spot and then head to the hotel to check-in.

Bodega Bay Lodge (A: 103 Coast Highway One, Bodega Bay, CA  94923.  P: 707-875-3525.  W: bodegabaylodge.com) is undoubtedly the premiere resort in the area (based on my pre-trip research).  The rooms are spacious and pretty luxurious.  We relax before we will meet my friend Kyle (a former colleague from the insurance biz) for dinner.

Bodega Bay Lodge

Per Yelp.com, we’ve chosen the best restaurant in the area, Terrapin Creek (A: 1580 Eastshore Road, Bodega Bay, CA  94923-0501.  P: 707-875-2700.  W: terrapincreekcafe.com).  We’re seated at a table and I’m concerned for Mr. Kyle as the weather was abysmal on our drive over.  I had called Kyle and suggested he meet us at our hotel in order to make things easier.  Regardless, we were able to navigate him past Noah’s Ark and to the restaurant via my cell phone.

Bella and I open the meal with the Berkshire Pork Belly with mustard braised collard greens.  Un-be-live-able!  This was so tasty I could’ve eaten two by myself.  Berkshire pigs are a rare breed of pig originating from Britain.  They are also bread in Japan and known as Kagoshima Kurobuta (black pig).  Bella had told me that black pigs are the “yummiest”, and once again, it seems she is on point.  For my entrée I choose the Chorizo and Manila Clam’s Pasta with homemade chorizo, linguini pasta and broccoli rabe.

The food appears to be a combination of California French and Asian (likely Chinese) cuisine.  My glass of Fort Ross Pinot Noir wine goes splendidly with the food.  Do not mistake this for P.F. Chang’s my friend, this is not pan-Asian dining.  Without question this is one of the top two restaurants we’ve dined at on these Christmas trips.  I’d say it’s on the same level as Christopher’s on Lincoln in Carmel.

For dessert I found myself in a push-pull situation over the carrot cake and the banana cream pie.  Unfortunately, I chose the banana cream pie which was good but not over-the-top like a Ruth Chris banana cream pie.  There is lots of charm in this establishment and in typical small town fashion our server is the husband of this co-owned restaurant.  Both husband and wife are graduates of The Culinary Institute of America (CIA).  Food and drink rating = A.

There is terrible rain, wind, flooding and poor visibility on the drive back to our lodge.  Kyle contemplated getting a room for the night.  Apparently Highway 1 was flooding pretty badly on his drive up.  The next morning we have breakfast on the property at The Duck Club Restaurant (P: 707-875-3525).  Bella has the Blueberry Buttermilk Pancakes served with Vermont maple syrup.  I roll with the Bodega Bagel which has smoked salmon, cream cheese, capers, sliced tomato and red onion.  As luck would have it they serve dark Peet’s Coffee.  Food and drink rating = A.

We check out of the hotel and make our way to Bird Walk Regional Park (A: 355 State Highway 1, south of the town of Bodega Bay) where we “attempt” to see some wildlife.  It costs $6.00 for parking and is the prime spot for observing birds in the area.  Bodega Bay is one of the top birding areas in the state and beyond.  The wind is so ferocious that I thought it was going to blow Bella over an embankment.  In the name of exercise we press on for fifteen minutes or so before I call it quits.  Even at two bills, I’m struggling to propel myself forward.  The only waterfowl that would endure this wind would have to be mentally challenged.  Next!

We depart for Cambria via Highway 1.  I pull over and photograph sheep and two lambs near some barbed wire fence in a field.  There is a dead hawk that may have been tricked by a puddle.  It appears that it may have attempted to dive-bomb imaginary prey and as a result was now deceased and “ass up”.

Slightly further down the road we see a short line of cars are stopped.  Upon arrival we see there is some pretty hefty flooding on the right side due to the sloping grade of the road.  We contemplate turning around before deciding to tailgate the full-size pick-up truck in front of us.  We proceed fairly slowly and somehow, some way make it through, apparently unscathed.  Less than a mile further we see a river where a road used to be…unfortunately that road is Highway 1.

A Volkswagen Jetta has ‘gone swimmin’.  It looks like the driver made the errant decision to proceed through the heavily flooded road.  His vehicle is largely submerged.  The only vehicles that proceed through this monstrosity are full-sized pick-ups.  We turn-around, proceed past the first flood zone and make our way to State Route 12 and then to the 101 Freeway.  As luck would have it, I check the voice mail on my cell phone and there is a message from Kyle detailing his journey home the night before.  There were some not-so-idle threats and four-letter words included.  He had to turn-around and take some farm road to get back to the 101.  I can only imagine how much worse the road was last night.

Jetta: “Hindsight is 20/20”

We arrive in Cambria about 5pm, we gas up and I buy a beanie cap (due to the strong cold winds) before we head to our inn, Moonstone Landing (A: 6240 Moonstone Beach Drive, Cambria, CA  93428.  P: 805-927-0012.  W: moonstonelanding.com).  We check-in immediately before walking next door to the Sea Chest Restaurant & Oyster Bar (A: 6216 Moonstone Beach Drive, Cambria, CA  93428.  P: 805-927-4514.  W: seachestrestaurant.com) where we add our name to the waiting list.

It is never a good sign when at the hostess podium you spot an impressionist painting by a local artist depicting the Sea Chest with a long line wrapping around the building.  We missed the opening rush so we have a one hour wait time.  We return to our room and watch a college football bowl game.

We are seated in the oyster bar at the restaurant and I immediately notice hundreds of business cards stapled to the ceiling.  We open with the steamers, clams steamed in white wine broth with garlic and herbs.  In typical Taiwanese fashion, Bella dips a spoon into the broth before eventually getting around to devouring the clams.

I order the calamari steak which is moderately breaded, sautéed and prepared abalone style.  There are sides of cocktail sauce, tartar sauce, red potatoes and mixed sautéed veggies.  The steak is tender, juicy and cuts easily with a butter knife and fork.  This Italian is delighting in this culinary experience.  Bella opts for the Alaskan halibut which she says is quite good.

Sea Chest: Calamari Steak

We walk next door to the inn and watch more of a college football bowl game.  About 10pm I venture out to the boardwalk that runs parallel with the beach.  The wind has died down and the air is cool, crisp and visibility is stunningly clear with hundreds of stars filling the sky.  I encounter less than a handful of fellow walkers along the way.  A gent walking his dog nearly backs into me, I presume due to the darkness and noise emanating from the crashing waves of the ocean.  I inhale the Cambria night air as I work off one-sixteenth of my filling meal.  I work my way over to the row of inns along Moonstone Beach and begin walking back towards our inn.

In the morning we drive to East Village to dine at Linn’s Main Bin Restaurant & Gifts (A: 2277 Main Street, Cambria, CA  93428.  P: 805-927-0371.  W: linnsofcambria.com).  They serve up a reliable and tasty breakfast.  Bella and I order the “griddle breakfast” both choosing French toastbaguette, battered and grilled, with a dash of vanilla and cinnamon, eggs over easy and a sausage patty.  Bella adds coffee to her meal.  Food and drink rating = A-.

After breakfast we hit the road back to Southern California.  Our 6^th Holiday Getaway is about over but hopefully we’ll cherish the memories for years to come.  “Good times”…